Thread: Best Vehicle for Snow

Originally Posted by MTN WARRIOR

You dont want to float on the road, you want more weight pressing down on a smaller area giving you better traction. IF you tire area is larger, according to science, less PSI.

It does make sense, although using the same logic it is still a mystery why tiny and girly arms of Crono don´t win a powerlifting competition.

I'm just gonna say a Hummer H1.

Originally Posted by MTN WARRIOR

Sorry bubba, but again science and my 30 years of DRIVING experience say you are wrong. IF we are talking going off road, then yes, you want more tire so you can float. You dont want to float on the road, you want more weight pressing down on a smaller area giving you better traction. IF you tire area is larger, according to science, less PSI. Less PSI means that you will sping your tires easier. Trust, me I've been doing this a while. On a flat packed road, you are probably having problems because you have reached diminishing returns and your tires have no "grip on them". Unlike snow treads which do. In other words, if you make a rubber ice skate that is the size of the tire, it is still a skate, smooth on the bottom with no tread.

My tires have plenty of tread, they have less than 10k on them. The fact is, there are only a couple of lugs touching the road at any given moment(small contact patch). Thats why I suggested to get an A/T tire(they are mentioned earlier in the thread) because the contact patch on the road will be greater.. hence the better traction. Your a fucking tool, thats trying to argue what? All your doing is repeating the points that I made earlier in the thread. And just because you've been doing 'this' a while, doesnt mean shit. I know a lot of people that have been doing a lot of things, for a long time. Guess what? They can still do them wrong.

600 HP / [(10*5)*4] or 200" = 3 HP per square inch.

600 HP / [(6*5)*4] or 120" = 5 HP per square inch.

Problem is when you don't have enough contact area from tire to ground you lose major ponies. A smaller tire provides more ponies per square inch ... but that power gets wasted when not applied. I left scratch marks as far as you can see ... till I put some serious rubber on. After the tires get wider shit gets interesting.

Had a 69' Camaro that I shoved a modified 427 into (along with a few other goodies ). That thing was rolling over 400 horse with out the blower. With the stock tires I could burn rubber anywhere at any speed. I put some real rubber on the rascal and did my first wheelies. Freaked me out so bad I put wheelie-bars on it. Parallel parking sucked ...

My point is that Mnt. is right in theory ... but most times the fat rubber is gonna "git 'er done".

Originally Posted by PreMier

there are only a couple of lugs touching the road at any given moment(small contact patch).

Tread blocks?

Thats why I suggested to get an A/T tire(they are mentioned earlier in the thread) because the contact patch on the road will be greater.. hence the better traction. .

Contact patch has absolutely nothing to do with wet traction. Look at rally snow tires, they are only like 120mm wide.

It's the compound and the tread block design that makes a snow tire, a snow tire.

Your a fucking tool, thats trying to argue what? All your doing is repeating the points that I made earlier in the thread. And just because you've been doing 'this' a while, doesnt mean shit. I know a lot of people that have been doing a lot of things, for a long time. Guess what? They can still do them wrong

By tool, you mean somebody that doesn't know what they are talking about?

hmmmm

Originally Posted by BoneCrusher

My point is that Mnt. is right in theory ... but most times the fat rubber is gonna "git 'er done".

Everybody overlooks the suspension geometry. Getting power to the ground is 75% about weight transfer and 25% about sticky tires.

Shocks are where it's at when it comes to tractions.

Originally Posted by MTNWARRIOR

You dont want to float on the road, you want more weight pressing down on a smaller area giving you better traction. IF you tire area is larger, according to science, less PSI.

You're right about weight distribution. But that doesn't have much to do with tire size. And larger area does NOT mean lower PSI, because you'll have a higher volume.

Originally Posted by Luke9583

Everybody overlooks the suspension geometry.

Not me ...