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Homebrew T Enan

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Thread: Homebrew T Enan

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    Homebrew T Enan

    So, did a small 20cc batch of T enan. 20% BB 2%BA and the remainder in grapeseed oil... The question is when the T Enan was heated and mixed with the solvents it turned an amber color. Is it still good? Why the Amber color?

    Also, how long do you all think powders remain optimally viable?

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    Sounds like you heated it up too hot and oxidized it. It should still be okay but next time keep the stove on low and put more water in the pan.

    The powders will last 3+ years.
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    "Sounds like you heated it up too hot and oxidized it. It should still be okay but next time keep the stove on low and put more water in the pan.
    The powders will last 3+ years."

    Sounds reasonable. I did EQ at the same temp no problems... I guess diff compounds may oxidize at diff temps?

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    I've only seen it turn clear. But you're still good.
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    with the BB do u need it to be 20%? like either put it in at 20% or dont bother?

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    No you can use it at other ratios. The BB is just to thin it out a little bit.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lambofgod View Post
    with the BB do u need it to be 20%? like either put it in at 20% or dont bother?
    You can do much lower than 20% bro. Some long esters like test e don't even need bb. Ppl use it so make it a bit less think and smoother going in.

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    Next time, get your water boiling. Take pot off eye. Then place your beaker in pot. Never put beaker in pot boiling.

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    I don't bother using bb with te250, 3% ba works fine.

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    Amber color is fine. Did you filter it at all? I use 18% bb and 2% BA for all mixtures I've done. Always use the lowest heat possible, why would you want to cook your juice? Only need to melt it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigD4life View Post
    You can do much lower than 20% bro. Some long esters like test e don't even need bb. Ppl use it so make it a bit less think and smoother going in.
    Good to know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FordFan View Post
    Next time, get your water boiling. Take pot off eye. Then place your beaker in pot. Never put beaker in pot boiling.
    I heat oil in a pan instead of water. I like oil because it can be heated without any steam or bubling. Then I use a digital thermometer to check the temp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thresh View Post
    Amber color is fine. Did you filter it at all? I use 18% bb and 2% BA for all mixtures I've done. Always use the lowest heat possible, why would you want to cook your juice? Only need to melt it.
    Filtered trough a 20 micron whatman. Ya, not trying to cook it... it was first batch of TE and it has such low melting point that I know now that 50 deg celcius is perfect for warming TE.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetto View Post
    I don't bother using bb with te250, 3% ba works fine.
    Will try that next time. THX

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    Quote Originally Posted by astroretnal View Post
    Filtered trough a 20 micron whatman. Ya, not trying to cook it... it was first batch of TE and it has such low melting point that I know now that 50 deg celcius is perfect for warming TE.
    .45 filter is better choice

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thresh View Post
    .45 filter is better choice
    I have done it with both...

    .20 micron is soooo slow. You all think that .45 is good enough? I have heard some ppl prefer .45 and others prefer .20... .45 is convenient time wise for sure.

    Any thoughts on .20 or .45???

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    Sounds good to me. I have brewd Tren E and Tren A both have cane out Dark yellow, and light yellow.

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    You sure its not tren E not test E?

    You should have a hotplate stirrer for homebrewing purposes but if you have yet to obtain one (they are expensive) I recommend using a pan of water. PLace a pan on the stove with the water level equal too or just above the level of the gear in the beaker.
    PLace the beaker in the water and turn the heat on to low med. DO NOT BOIL anything.
    Dont boil water or gear or anything. Heat it slowly and evenly.
    You should easily get it to turn clear on low-med heat. If after 10 min your gear isnt clear turn it up to med heat.

    Once its clear remove from the water and let it cool a bit.
    Do not filter until you can hold the beaker (the hot part) in your hand.

    Always use a .22 filter.

    Yes its a pain in the ass.....you know whats more of a pain...staph infections.
    All information provided by me is for research purpose only. I do not sell illegal compounds nor can I supply anyone with a source for raw materials.




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    Quote Originally Posted by brundel View Post
    You sure its not tren E not test E?

    You should have a hotplate stirrer for homebrewing purposes but if you have yet to obtain one (they are expensive) I recommend using a pan of water. PLace a pan on the stove with the water level equal too or just above the level of the gear in the beaker.
    PLace the beaker in the water and turn the heat on to low med. DO NOT BOIL anything.
    Dont boil water or gear or anything. Heat it slowly and evenly.
    You should easily get it to turn clear on low-med heat. If after 10 min your gear isnt clear turn it up to med heat.

    Once its clear remove from the water and let it cool a bit.
    Do not filter until you can hold the beaker (the hot part) in your hand.

    Always use a .22 filter.

    Yes its a pain in the ass.....you know whats more of a pain...staph infections.
    All too true.

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