What is the minimum time that the solution needs to be heated?

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    Post Approximate temperature and time for heating homebrew...






    When doing a homebrew how long does the solution need to be heated; also, is there a maximum temperature and time that the solution shouldn't exceed?
    Last edited by 1genius; 06-24-2012 at 02:19 PM.

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    212 degrees F

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    Quote Originally Posted by ctr10 View Post
    212 degrees F
    What's the approximate legnth of time?

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    get a glass beaker (pyrex) that can be placed in the oven, set your oven to 212 degrees, when temp reaches 212 wait about 10 min. so oil comes up to temp then your good

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    Quote Originally Posted by ctr10 View Post
    get a glass beaker (pyrex) that can be placed in the oven, set your oven to 212 degrees, when temp reaches 212 wait about 10 min. so oil comes up to temp then your good
    Is letting the solution slighty boil for 5-10 minutes too extreme?

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    No boiling. I like to get a beaker, put the powder, oil and solvents in the beaker and place that beaker in a pan of water. The water in the pan should be just above the mixture in the beaker. Heat the water slowly while stirring the powder, oil and solvents in the beaker until all powder is dissolved. Once you can see there is no particles left and it is completely clear you're good. Let it cool a little and start filtering.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hill450 View Post
    No boiling. I like to get a beaker, put the powder, oil and solvents in the beaker and place that beaker in a pan of water. The water in the pan should be just above the mixture in the beaker. Heat the water slowly while stirring the powder, oil and solvents in the beaker until all powder is dissolved. Once you can see there is no particles left and it is completely clear you're good. Let it cool a little and start filtering.
    What he said. Until you know what you're doing, let your brew sit a few hours to see if it swirls or crashes. You'll thank yourself for doing this if you've filtered a lot of gear then find out the brew was off
    Tren...it's what's for dinner!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1genius View Post
    Is letting the solution slighty boil for 5-10 minutes too extreme?
    212 degrees F. will not boil, it is only for sterilizing the oil

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    I'll repeat this again, you are not going to sterilze shit by putting the oil in the oven at 212. Microorganisms are much more resilant than that. Filtering is the only thing that sterilizes the gear. If you could sterilize gear by putting it in the oven at 212 no one would ever have bad gear.

    The best practice is to use sterile gear and practice sterile methods while you are in the lab. If you have glass that you re-use either invest in a pressure cooker so you can "autoclave" your glass or clean it really well multiple times and stick it in the oven around 380 degrees and let it sit in there for a couple hours. Dry heat sterilization takes a long time and isn't 100% effective against all organisms. But it's much better than nothing.

    The purpose of heating it up is to help everything come into solution. Put all of your ingredients together except the oil and then put it in a pan of water that covers as much of the beaker as possible but still doesn't float. Then put the temp to like 2 on the dial. Swirl it around and let it heat up. When everything is in solution, add your oil. Swirl and continue heating that as well. Then pull it off and let it sit for a while to cool off. If it crashes then you add more solvent. If not, while it's still kinda warm, filter it....DONE
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    Quote Originally Posted by SloppyJ View Post
    I'll repeat this again, you are not going to sterilze shit by putting the oil in the oven at 212. Microorganisms are much more resilant than that. Filtering is the only thing that sterilizes the gear. If you could sterilize gear by putting it in the oven at 212 no one would ever have bad gear.

    The best practice is to use sterile gear and practice sterile methods while you are in the lab. If you have glass that you re-use either invest in a pressure cooker so you can "autoclave" your glass or clean it really well multiple times and stick it in the oven around 380 degrees and let it sit in there for a couple hours. Dry heat sterilization takes a long time and isn't 100% effective against all organisms. But it's much better than nothing.

    The purpose of heating it up is to help everything come into solution. Put all of your ingredients together except the oil and then put it in a pan of water that covers as much of the beaker as possible but still doesn't float. Then put the temp to like 2 on the dial. Swirl it around and let it heat up. When everything is in solution, add your oil. Swirl and continue heating that as well. Then pull it off and let it sit for a while to cool off. If it crashes then you add more solvent. If not, while it's still kinda warm, filter it....DONE
    Sloppy, I always just put all the solvents and oil(all but 3ml or so) together in a beaker then add the powder and heat that up in a pan of water. I haven't had any crash yet doing it this way.

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    Sloppy you know alot more than me, but on heavy's sticky for brewing I could have sworn he said the 212 degrees F was for sterilizing the oil, thats the way I have been doing it for a while and never had one issue. Maybe I have just been Lucky I don't know, I will try your technique which looks really good, sorry if I gave the guy bumm scoop

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    Quote Originally Posted by ctr10 View Post
    Sloppy you know alot more than me, but on heavy's sticky for brewing I could have sworn he said the 212 degrees F was for sterilizing the oil, thats the way I have been doing it for a while and never had one issue. Maybe I have just been Lucky I don't know, I will try your technique which looks really good, sorry if I gave the guy bumm scoop
    You'll notice a lot of recipes say to cook the gear after but it is unnecessary and can hurt some gear like tren I believe. Just filter it through sterile filter into a sterile environment/vial and youre good!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ctr10 View Post
    212 degrees F
    Where the hell are you getting 212 F? Sounds great if you want to boil water, but we are not doing that are we?

    You technically do not have to heat up the gear at all, it will just take a long time. Heat it as low as possible as to not risk damaging any of the gear.

    I heat mine at a very low temp and maybe takes 10-20 min to go into solution.


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    Quote Originally Posted by hill450 View Post
    No boiling. I like to get a beaker, put the powder, oil and solvents in the beaker and place that beaker in a pan of water. The water in the pan should be just above the mixture in the beaker. Heat the water slowly while stirring the powder, oil and solvents in the beaker until all powder is dissolved. Once you can see there is no particles left and it is completely clear you're good. Let it cool a little and start filtering.
    This works great


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    Quote Originally Posted by ctr10 View Post
    Sloppy you know alot more than me, but on heavy's sticky for brewing I could have sworn he said the 212 degrees F was for sterilizing the oil, thats the way I have been doing it for a while and never had one issue. Maybe I have just been Lucky I don't know, I will try your technique which looks really good, sorry if I gave the guy bumm scoop
    Sterilizing oil..... What we use filters for.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Thresh View Post
    Where the hell are you getting 212 F? Sounds great if you want to boil water, but we are not doing that are we?

    You technically do not have to heat up the gear at all, it will just take a long time. Heat it as low as possible as to not risk damaging any of the gear.

    I heat mine at a very low temp and maybe takes 10-20 min to go into solution.


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    212 degrees F will not not boil anything, and I got the 212 degrees from a brewing sticky that heavy put out

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    Quote Originally Posted by SloppyJ View Post
    I'll repeat this again, you are not going to sterilze shit by putting the oil in the oven at 212. Microorganisms are much more resilant than that. Filtering is the only thing that sterilizes the gear. If you could sterilize gear by putting it in the oven at 212 no one would ever have bad gear.

    The best practice is to use sterile gear and practice sterile methods while you are in the lab. If you have glass that you re-use either invest in a pressure cooker so you can "autoclave" your glass or clean it really well multiple times and stick it in the oven around 380 degrees and let it sit in there for a couple hours. Dry heat sterilization takes a long time and isn't 100% effective against all organisms. But it's much better than nothing.

    The purpose of heating it up is to help everything come into solution. Put all of your ingredients together except the oil and then put it in a pan of water that covers as much of the beaker as possible but still doesn't float. Then put the temp to like 2 on the dial. Swirl it around and let it heat up. When everything is in solution, add your oil. Swirl and continue heating that as well. Then pull it off and let it sit for a while to cool off. If it crashes then you add more solvent. If not, while it's still kinda warm, filter it....DONE

    So how long should I wait before classifying the my brew as bunk? I did a batch of eq and a batch of test prop. I started 1cc of each in the same pin last night and no post injection pain as of now.

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    Yes heavy's old tren recipe called for baking the gear. This was some old broscience that caught on and I'm really not even sure how. Heating up tren can cause it to oxidize. Not sure if other compounds will do this but I know tren will. It will turn very dark.

    The best method is to use just enough heat to get everything into solution and no more. No need to cook the stuff. To sterilize it, use a filter.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hill450 View Post
    Sloppy, I always just put all the solvents and oil(all but 3ml or so) together in a beaker then add the powder and heat that up in a pan of water. I haven't had any crash yet doing it this way.
    Thats the way that most people do it. Everyone seems to have great luck doing it this way. But crashing really isn't dependent on how you heat it, it's more dependent on the ratio of solvents to powder. Higher doses require more solvents in order to stay in solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by ctr10 View Post
    Sloppy you know alot more than me, but on heavy's sticky for brewing I could have sworn he said the 212 degrees F was for sterilizing the oil, thats the way I have been doing it for a while and never had one issue. Maybe I have just been Lucky I don't know, I will try your technique which looks really good, sorry if I gave the guy bumm scoop
    No it's cool bro I know that his stuff said to bake it. But if you do a little microbiology research, you will find that baking the gear at 212 for that short of a time will do nothing to help the sterilization process.
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    I read a post from a very famous private chef where he said 140f was a good temp to get most hormones into solution. He also said he never goes over 160f. Hope that helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SloppyJ View Post
    Thats the way that most people do it. Everyone seems to have great luck doing it this way. But crashing really isn't dependent on how you heat it, it's more dependent on the ratio of solvents to powder. Higher doses require more solvents in order to stay in solution.
    I know its not but I didn't know if doing it the way I do affected anything. I think doing it this way would be good for making tren as well. I believe brundel said that ba can be harmful to tren and should be added last. I think added it with the oil and bb would be good so that a very small amount would actually come into direct contact with the tren. Don't want to denature my tren and make it weak!

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    Tren does have a lower heat tolerance. But adding it in with the oil at the end wouldn't solve anything as you still have to heat it to get it to go into solution. Just keep the heat low and keep an eye on it. The worst case is that you are going to oxidize it which I don't believe affects the potency of the tren.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1genius View Post
    Is letting the solution slighty boil for 5-10 minutes too extreme?
    You're referring to an oil solution??? no wonder you were asking if your homebrew is bunk,,, bro, oil boils at a HIGH TEMP!!! I'm sure youj have no actual aas left if you boiled the oil!!!

    these compounds are fairly easily degraded by heat(a few in particular are DESTROYED by heat... this is why packaging inserts on aas(if you get us pharma) say 'store at 68-86F in a dark place(or they are in amber vials)

    I think 212 is a little extreme even(160 for 20 min destroys ALL bacteria), but most are ok at 212(with the exception of tren, and a few others)

    another way you can do it is put the vial in a pot of boiling water(this will never go over 212 F, and it actually heats the solution to temp quicker so you dont have to worry about heating too long or too high of temp(oven is all over the place with temp, and does not bring to temp nearly as quickly..
    if you pm me what you did, I can tell you if your raws were legit, and if what you made is still good

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    Quote Originally Posted by hill450 View Post
    I know its not but I didn't know if doing it the way I do affected anything. I think doing it this way would be good for making tren as well. I believe brundel said that ba can be harmful to tren and should be added last. I think added it with the oil and bb would be good so that a very small amount would actually come into direct contact with the tren. Don't want to denature my tren and make it weak!
    the easiest way to do tren bro.... mix ba and bb in same syringe before adding it to powder( this will keep staight ba from contacting your tren... dissolve this, before adding oil.... it barely takes any heat at all..almost immediately a solution... then add preheated oil(have the oil heating before you even start working on dissolving tren in solvents(I get my oil into the 160 degree range for tren), then add the warm oil to the ba/bb/tren solution, should form a nice 'golden' oil... you can heat at 160 for ten more minutes after you have a total soloution(ba/bb/tren/oil)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1genius View Post
    So how long should I wait before classifying the my brew as bunk? I did a batch of eq and a batch of test prop. I started 1cc of each in the same pin last night and no post injection pain as of now.
    you should give the prop a week to 10 days.. what mg/ml did you make it? unless it's high mg/ml you probably wont have pip... and being that y, you mixed with eq, you probably wont have ANY pip... doesnt' mean it is bunk... but if you boiled the oil, its prob no good.....

    if you actually explain what you did, nearly anyone who has homebrewed could tell you if you are gtg...

    I'm not on here much anymore... but sloppyj could tell you in a heartbeat if it is good or not... if you tell him exactky what you did when you made it...

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    Quote Originally Posted by overburdened View Post
    the easiest way to do tren bro.... mix ba and bb in same syringe before adding it to powder( this will keep staight ba from contacting your tren... dissolve this, before adding oil.... it barely takes any heat at all..almost immediately a solution... then add preheated oil(have the oil heating before you even start working on dissolving tren in solvents(I get my oil into the 160 degree range for tren), then add the warm oil to the ba/bb/tren solution, should form a nice 'golden' oil... you can heat at 160 for ten more minutes after you have a total soloution(ba/bb/tren/oil)
    It seems to me it would be better to add solvents and oil together then add the powder and heat. That would be much more liquid the ba could be spread throughout where hardly any would come in direct contact with the powder? Thats just what makes sense to me. Adding straight bb and ba to tren powder seems much more harsh to me than adding powder to ba, bb and oil? No?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hill450 View Post
    It seems to me it would be better to add solvents and oil together then add the powder and heat. That would be much more liquid the ba could be spread throughout where hardly any would come in direct contact with the powder? Thats just what makes sense to me. Adding straight bb and ba to tren powder seems much more harsh to me than adding powder to ba, bb and oil? No?
    The oil is a carrier. The powder actually dissolves in the BB.

    I actually add BA after I filter because BA can degrade some type of filters very quickly.

    Add BB, powder, then slowly add oil till desired batch quantity is achieved. Now you can add BA now or filter then add BA.


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    There's no need to heat anything (if you're making from straight powder). It may take a while to go into solution, but who cares. Heating test, deca, eq is all fine. Test will actually take on more of a yellowish color under heat.

    Heating tren will make it oxidize and turn even more orange/brown.

    Always filter the final product. Always. Final filtration are what sterilizes the product, not any heating step.

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    Quote Originally Posted by UA_Iron View Post
    There's no need to heat anything (if you're making from straight powder). It may take a while to go into solution, but who cares. Heating test, deca, eq is all fine. Test will actually take on more of a yellowish color under heat.

    Heating tren will make it oxidize and turn even more orange/brown.

    Always filter the final product. Always. Final filtration are what sterilizes the product, not any heating step.
    now i am confused, lol
    I can not spell worth a damn. I already know this.
    so please dont waste your time or mine calling me out on something spelled wrong.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pork Chop View Post
    now i am confused, lol
    You do not actually need to heat anything. Heat will help it dissolve faster, but is not needed at all.


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