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Self Sufficiency for a Fit and Healthy Lifestyle

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NeilPearson said:
I would think 1000 watts MH would be overkill. 250 would probably be lots
1000 watts only covers a 4' x 4' area at a height of 24". It is the industry standard in greenhouse/nursery operations. If you don't get enough light on the seedlings, they grow into tall, spindly plants that are always reaching for light to perform there photosynthesis operations. It takes alot of light in the right spectrums to produce short, stocky, healthy plants for transplanting.
 
boilermaker said:
Thanks, Emma. Those are good links. Did you pick Urban Homesteading just because there are pics of Chooks on the front page?
:grin:

But... but.... They are little troppers!! They are so gorgous when they get all clucky and fluff their feathers out!

Ohhhh.... But we could do pigs instead?! YES!! Can we have pigs?!! :hog: They are GREAT garbage disposals!!

:p

I have a question. How come when you post a picture, it appears as a picture and when I post a picture it appears as a thumbnail?
Different code used.

If it is uploaded as an attachment from your puter it will appear as a thumbnail. But If you want to post the piccy IN then post you need to use these code: [ IMG] TYPE IN URL HERE [ /IMG] (without the spaces in the brackets).
 
Pylon said:
So, are chooks a small chicken, an orange mellon, or a cross of the two? Wouldn't that be a micken? Or a chellon?
Melon? :hmmm: I thought it was a pumpkin?! Is it a pumpkin?

And it if is wouldn't that be a pumook? Or a Chimpkin....??

:D
 
I noticed you still didn't answer the question... :D
 
boilermaker said:
1000 watts only covers a 4' x 4' area at a height of 24". It is the industry standard in greenhouse/nursery operations. If you don't get enough light on the seedlings, they grow into tall, spindly plants that are always reaching for light to perform there photosynthesis operations. It takes alot of light in the right spectrums to produce short, stocky, healthy plants for transplanting.

So, this leads to what might be an obvious question for some people, but I'll ask anyway. How much space and what kind of setup should we be looking at for this? (I know, it depends.) I have a room in my basement where I can set something up. Should I think about a 4x4 table top? Hang the light above it? I would look for more than just herbs at that point, but not sure what.
 
Pylon said:
So, this leads to what might be an obvious question for some people, but I'll ask anyway. How much space and what kind of setup should we be looking at for this? (I know, it depends.) I have a room in my basement where I can set something up. Should I think about a 4x4 table top? Hang the light above it? I would look for more than just herbs at that point, but not sure what.
O.K., I spent a bunch of time writing up a response to this and then when I entered it, the system was down for upgrading:mad: .

First, I was given the light to use by a friend. They cost about $250 to buy and use 12 kw-hours per day. Not to discourage you, but your local nursery does this on a mass scale and will have good quality plants available at the right time to plant them outdoors. I've never used one before and the only real reason I'm doing it this year is because I have the light to use and nothing better to do.

That said, yes a 4' x 4' table would be appropriate for this light. I think I'm going to use a 38" round table so I can put a rotary micro-sprinkler in the center and not have to water it myself. Why? I don't know, I like automation.

Herbs can be started on a windowsill and then moved outside when the weather is warm enough. You need a window that gets a good amount of light during the day (at least 4 hours and preferably 8). This would be a south facing window in North America and a north facing window for Emma. The reason you can do this with herbs is because you are actually eating the plant. You cut off what you want to use and the plant regenerates that tissue again.

A vegetable, on the other hand, must be kept in alot better balance because it needs to be healthy enough to produce a flower, then the fruit. Thus, it becomes a timing issue, so that you are putting a healthy, robust plant outside at the optimal time (around your frost free date). If you start it too early, it will get spindly and weak and will spend time recovering outside and probably produce a poor yield. Start it too late and it will be o.k., but you won't have any fresh veggies until later in the year. Your local nursury will have this nailed down.

Alot of vegetables can be started outside from seed. The ones typically started indoors are heat loving plants. In Michigan, the heat lovers need to be started inside because the growing season is pretty short. Some examples of veggies started inside before the frost-free date would be: Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplant, Melons and Squash. Where you live, in St. Louis, it would be more a factor of when you want to begin harvesting the veggies. These plants are started indoors so that you don't have to wait until July to pick a tomato.

Soon, I'll start posting some individual plants, their requirements and what not. We can discuss them from there and you can decide what you have the space to try.

I was going to take some pictures today, but everything is under snow, so I'll have to wait for a mini thaw so you can see something besides mounds of snow.
 
Frost-Free Planting Dates

Here is a link to a website that you can use as a guide to determine the average last and first frost dates of the year.

North America: http://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/

Australia: Looks like this isn't much of a concern for Sydney. I couldn't find a frost-free guide, but this is a link showing plant hardiness zones http://www.anbg.gov.au/hort.research/zones.html

****By the way, I don't seem to be able to label links anymore. Anyone know why?
 
boilermaker said:
By the way, I don't seem to be able to label links anymore. Anyone know why?
:hmmm: How are you trying to put them in?

You can link with the code:
[ url=type address here]Display words here[ /url] (But without the spaces).

You can also click on the
createlink.gif
icon at the top of the 'create message' box...
 
Emma-Leigh said:
:hmmm: How are you trying to put them in?

You can link with the code:
[ url=type address here]Display words here[ /url] (But without the spaces).

You can also click on the
createlink.gif
icon at the top of the 'create message' box...
Thanks for the tips. The insert link icon used to prompt me for the display words but doesn't anymore. I can do it manually though.
 
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Plant Hardiness Zones

Plant hardiness zones are good to know for your area so that you can determine which perennial plants (Plants that do not die after one growing season) will overwinter in your area.

There are many perennial herbs and some perennial vegetables that you can grow. Also, some perennial plants that are not hardy enough to survive winter in your area can be planted in pots and brought inside during the cold months, then put back out the following spring. When you bring them in, they won't need alot of light to survive because they will be dormant. They will need to be watered occasionally.

Outside, you can bury the entire pot in the ground during the summer if you so desire. You can also plant them directly in the ground and dig and repot them for the winter.

Perennial plants that can overwinter in your garden need to be placed properly, as they will be back year after year. Some, in fact spread aggressively and you may want to contain them. We can talk about this with each individual plant, but a couple of quick examples for aggressive spreaders would be mint and horseradish. These can get out of control fairly quickly if not contained properly.

Here is an interactive plant hardiness zone map for North America

Here is a plant hardiness zone map for Australia

Note: All seeds and plants that you purchase will come with the zone hardiness information on the label or seed packet. These same maps are useful when selecting perennial flowers and shrubs.
 
Emma-Leigh said:
:gosh:

:hmmm:

Would that be whether or not chook = melon or a chicken?

A Chook = Chicken (they are the same - one is just aussie slang! :p )

Yay! I learned some Aussie words today! Teach me more!!!! :laugh:
 
So, what do you folks want to see in here next. I've got some time tomorrow, but don't want to just ramble on...........................................
 
How about a list of veggies that are good choices for growing indoors (or mostly so, at least)?
 
Pylon said:
How about a list of veggies that are good choices for growing indoors (or mostly so, at least)?
Well Py, you really can't "grow" veggies inside. You can start them and move them outside, but unless your set up, there is no need to try it unless your a gardening degenerate like me:) .

Herbs on the other hand are great. You can start some in and move them out to your garden, porch, balcony or other sunny space. I like lemon grass, basil, parsley, mint, chives, garlic chives, sage, dill and cilantro (corriander if you let it go to seed).

To be honest, I planted them all outside last year. But, I'm willing to try some windowsill herbs to see what can be done over winter. Let's start by selecting an herb and detailing it Saturday. When were done with that one, we'll move to the next. Stay tuned for Lemon Grass tomorrow afternoon! I'll detail it and then maybe someone else can present the next one. I'll also detail some aspects of seed starting. Remember, if you contribute a topic, identify it in the title box so it is searchable later.
 
No fair! Lemon grass can't be killed! My mom bought a small batch from an asian food store a couple of years ago and planted in a 5 gal bucket. The bucket is STILL overflowing! :laugh:
 
b_reed23 said:
what kinds of things can you use lemon grass for?? And where can I get seeds for it this time of year?
Lemon grass is great for flavoring tea or water. It is also used a lot in asian style cooking. I've used it in stir fry dishes and with fish when I do the pouch method.

Find out who has the best nursery in town and pay them a visit. I'm sure they have a seed rack somewhere. Some herbs can be started from fresh cuttings that you buy at the supermarket, too. Lemon Grass is an example of this.
 
Starting Seeds Indoors

You can start seeds inside for many plants. I'm going to try and grow a bunch of different herbs on a windowsill this winter and see which ones do well. I haven't tried herbs like this before, so I'll be learning as I go.


Here is what the seeds need to grow into healthy plants:
  • A seed starting container with good drainage
  • A loose disease free planting mixture that can be kept evenly moist
  • A complete, low analasys fertilizer
  • An appropriate amount of light
  • An appropriate amount of water
  • A growing area that has a pretty stable temperature
  • The right germination temperature
Seed Starting Containers​
Seed Starting containers can be elaborate manufactured units like this one,
3257410zr.jpg

or as simple as a styrofoam cup. It doesn't really matter as long as it holds the soil, has holes in the bottom for drainage and can be covered with a clear plastic. If you are starting the seeds in a container that will also be its's final home, make sure it is large enought to accomodate the root mass of the mature plant.

Planting Mixture​
Young plants are very succeptable to disease and most of these diseases are soilborne. So, buy a soilless seed starting mixture that has been pasteurized or steralized, not regular potting soil. You want something that is roughly 40% milled sphagnum peat moss, 50% medium grade vermiculite and 10% horticultural grade perlite. I also look for something with a starter fertilizer in the mix. This mix is light, drains well, and holds alot of moisture for the roots.

Fertilizer​
You will need a complete fertilizer for your seedlings. By complete, I am looking for something with all three macros and a micronutrient profile. The soilless mixture does not have any trace elements, so it is important that your fertilizer supply these. How much of each micronutrient is not really important, just make sure it is there. I look for a macronutrient ratio of 2:1:2 ratio of Nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium. The numbers aren't that important as long as the ratio is close to this. You can get it in either granular form or a dissolvable powder meant for foliar feeding. I like the granular form because they release nutrients to the plant over a longer period of time.

Light​

The more sunlight the seedlings are exposed to the better. Best windows are south facing. I know that you can also use flourescent lights, hung very close to the plant, but I've not tried this. I have a MH bulb that I will be using for my veggies, but will try and grow as many herbs as I can on the windowsill.

Water​
Plants need water. Not too much, or you create a bad environmet that harbors disease. Just enough to keep the soil profile damp. You will want to use a mister before seeds emerge so you don't disturb the soil too much. Some seed starting trays have a resivoir and capilary mat which wicks the water up into the soil profile. You just keep the resivoir full with this type.

NOTE: Do not water you plants with water that has been treated with a water softener. The salt will harm your plants.

Temperature​
Young seedlings are vulnerable to wide swings in temperature, so try to keep them in a room that has stable temperatures and if the window they are near is drafty, stop the draft. For germination, the seeds don't need light, but will germinate faster if the soil is kept warm. On top of a refrigerator is ideal for this. This is one reason for covering the container with plastic when they are seeds and very young seedlings. To control temp. and humidity.

I think I'll try and start some seeds this weekend and take a few pictures as well.
 
Last edited:
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boilermaker said:
Lemon grass is great for flavoring tea or water. It is also used a lot in asian style cooking. I've used it in stir fry dishes and with fish when I do the pouch method.

Find out who has the best nursery in town and pay them a visit. I'm sure they have a seed rack somewhere. Some herbs can be started from fresh cuttings that you buy at the supermarket, too. Lemon Grass is an example of this.
Looks like paragraph 2 is bad information. I went to my nursery today they don't have any seeds. So, looks like internet ordering is the best option right now.
 
So, is this the right time to start the herbs? If you are growing exclusivley inside for now, does it matter what time of year it is?
 
Pylon said:
So, is this the right time to start the herbs? If you are growing exclusivley inside for now, does it matter what time of year it is?
Yes, they should do fine. I'm going to get some going shortly. I think I'll need to order some seeds though.

I'll post a chart soon for things that you are going to start inside and move outside It will show how many weeks before your frost free date that you shoud plant the seed inside.
 
Indoor Seed Starting Dates for Transplanting Outdoors

Here is a handy chart that I found for approximating the right time to start seeds indoors so that you can plant them out in the garden. Remember, you want a short, stocky healthy plant. Some things don't transplant too well and you are better growing them from seed outdoors. Here in Michigan, the season is short so I will be growing them indoors and putting them out anyway. For stuff like this, I plan on using peat pots so I don't have to disturb the root mass at transplant time. Some things that fall into this catergory are squash and melons.

Here is the link to the seed starting chart
 
Basil

Plant Family: Mint
Life Cycle: Annual

Sow Indoors: 4-6 weeks before last frost of spring
Sow Outdoors: After danger of last frost has passed

Seed Spacing: 4-8". Sow 2 inches apart and thin to strongest plants
Seed Depth: Cover lightly
Days to Germination: 5-10

Light: Full Sun
Water: Light and even
Nutrients: N (low), P (low), K (low)

Good companions: Pepper, Tomato
Bad Companions: Beans, Cabbage, Cucumber
Rotation Considerations: Avoid rotating with Oregano or Marjoram

Harvest: Individual leaves as needed, buds before they open, whole plant before frost
Storage: Fresh basil can be stored in water at room temp, in a ziplock with damp paper towell in the fridge. Can be frozen as a pesto or as a thick sauce when blended with enough water to make a paste.

Notes: Likes heat and sunlight. Has low germination rate (60%). Pinch buds on growing points to make plant bushier. Good to plant with tomatoes and peppers because it repels hornworms. Flowers attract bees, which increases pollination of tomatoes.

My Notes: Basil is simple to grow and requires almost no care, as long as you don't let it bake. I don't know if you can grow an entire plant inside, but I'll give it a shot and keep you posted. I'm going to try Summerlong from burpee and probably a purple variety, as well.
240pxbasil151117jl.jpg
 
boilermaker said:
Plant Family: Mint
Life Cycle: Annual

Sow Indoors: 4-6 weeks before last frost of spring
Sow Outdoors: After danger of last frost has passed

Seed Spacing: 4-8". Sow 2 inches apart and thin to strongest plants
Seed Depth: Cover lightly
Days to Germination: 5-10

Light: Full Sun
Water: Light and even
Nutrients: N (low), P (low), K (low)

Good companions: Pepper, Tomato
Bad Companions: Beans, Cabbage, Cucumber
Rotation Considerations: Avoid rotating with Oregano or Marjoram

Harvest: Individual leaves as needed, buds before they open, whole plant before frost
Storage: Fresh basil can be stored in water at room temp, in a ziplock with damp paper towell in the fridge. Can be frozen as a pesto or as a thick sauce when blended with enough water to make a paste.

Notes: Likes heat and sunlight. Has low germination rate (60%). Pinch buds on growing points to make plant bushier. Good to plant with tomatoes and peppers because it repels hornworms. Flowers attract bees, which increases pollination of tomatoes.

My Notes: Basil is simple to grow and requires almost no care, as long as you don't let it bake. I don't know if you can grow an entire plant inside, but I'll give it a shot and keep you posted. I'm going to try Summerlong from burpee and probably a purple variety, as well.
240pxbasil151117jl.jpg

Basil's great, one of the most versatile herbs
 
Yoghurt or Yogurt - Make your own!

Yoghurt


Yoghurt, when it is natural, plain, unsweetened, and full of live cultures, is a wonderfully healthy food!! It helps with your cholesterol, your blood pressure, your immune system, can aid in digestion, can decrease your risk of colon cancer, can help fight infections, is a great source of calcium, acts as a great source of protein and carboydrates and can aid in weight loss!! Due to it's bacterial components, the lactose content is also reduced, therefore it can even be helpful for those who are lactose intolerant!!

You can read about the many health benefits it has on The Worlds Healthiest Foods website. But there is also information on this site, this site, this site, this site, this site and on this site. You can also find lots of articles on the topic such as this Assessment of the Benefits of Live Yogurt. As well as lots of research on yoghurt and pro-biotics on pubmed and highwire journals, such as yoghurt and immunity. And there are a few posts on it in the nutrition section such as this one on Yoghurt PWO and this one on Yoghurt and Carbohydrates.


However - it is hard to know exactly what you are getting from purchased yoghurts. They may not contain live and active cultures, or they may have things such as sugar, flavours or stabilisers added!! :eek:

So.... Why not make your own??!! :D


There are a few different ways you can make your own yoghurt. There is the hand-made method, such as that described 'here and here or here... But frankly - unless you have a LOT of free time on your hands then who are we kidding - no one is going to be bothered to do it that way!!

So why not let something else do all the work! :p The much easier way is to simply purchase one of the many commercial yoghurt makers available. For example, you have a choice of products such as Donvier, Easiyo, Yogourmet, Breadbeckers, or some of these ones or these ones.

Give it a go - I make my own yoghurt with the Easiyo maker. Takes all of 2 minutes to set up, I leave it for 15 hrs and when I come back I have a tasty yoghurt that is cheaper and healthier than the store stuff! :thumb:
 
Have you ever tried the method of making yogurt with a heating pad? I can get the details if you want them. I took a shot at it once, but my heating pad isn't strong enough.
 
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