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Stop me if you've heard this one before. You haven't..

D

djquirk

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So I had to rebottle some gear in order to get it to xxxx. You'll notice that on some plastic bottles after you pull the main cap off there is a small styrofo disk you than have to peel off. So I put the gear in the bottle and then superglued the foam disk on to make it look like a new, unopened bottle. Well after my travels I took a look and it seems that the oil has dissolved the foam. There are now a few particles floating around in it which are easy enough to filter out. What I'm concerned with is the matter that's dissolved into the oil that you cannot see. Any ideas on how to get it out? And no, I'm not throwing away the gear. It was pricey and I took a huge risk getting it here. My thought is once I I filter it through a coffee filter I'll put it in a Pyrex dish and sit that in boiling water for at least 30 minutes. I know this will kill any germs but like I said I'm more worried about removing the foreign chemicals now residing in my oil. Any thoughts? Oh, and I don't know of it matters but the substance is human grade test E 250. Thanks
 
How did the foam get into the oil through the stopper? Did this happen to all the vials? Also you don't filter with coffee filters bro... You need syringe filters or it will not be sterile anymore.
 
Money is more important than what you inject into your body? Good luck with your future life endeavors.
 
You should have purchased plastic shrink. Get a 1,000 of them for a few bucks. I'm talking about the plastic that almost looks sucked on to a product. A hair dryer or heat gun is what you use to shrink it.

Perfume sample vials make great 2ml doses as well :)

Purchase a syringe filter, run your product through that.


5"10
195lbs

Currently cycle:
Cruising on 250mg Test Cyp/week.
 
djquirk said:
So I had to rebottle some gear in order to get it to xxxx. You'll notice that on some plastic bottles after you pull the main cap off there is a small styrofo disk you than have to peel off. So I put the gear in the bottle and then superglued the foam disk on to make it look like a new, unopened bottle. Well after my travels I took a look and it seems that the oil has dissolved the foam. There are now a few particles floating around in it which are easy enough to filter out. What I'm concerned with is the matter that's dissolved into the oil that you cannot see. Any ideas on how to get it out? And no, I'm not throwing away the gear. It was pricey and I took a huge risk getting it here. My thought is once I I filter it through a coffee filter I'll put it in a Pyrex dish and sit that in boiling water for at least 30 minutes. I know this will kill any germs but like I said I'm more worried about removing the foreign chemicals now residing in my oil. Any thoughts? Oh, and I don't know of it matters but the substance is human grade test E 250. Thanks
Click to expand...

Toss that shit
 
Idra said:
Money is more important than what you inject into your body? Good luck with your future life endeavors.
Click to expand...


No, but money's important enough to at least try and salvage it. I'm sure every single substance you've ordered from a UGL and injected was only made from the worlds finest ingredients and prepared only under the strictest of laboratory sterility standards.
 
Digitalash said:
How did the foam get into the oil through the stopper? Did this happen to all the vials? Also you don't filter with coffee filters bro... You need syringe filters or it will not be sterile anymore.
Click to expand...

The bottle has a screw on cap on top that you can flip up to squirt out whatever's in the bottle. On the top of the actual bottle is a little foam disk used to create a seal. So before you can fill the bottle you have to unscrew the main top, peel away the foam disk and screw the top back on. So after I filled it the oil was in contact with the foam disk in theory to keeping from leaking out until I was ready to use it. I doubt it wpuld have leaked but I decided to use the foam to make the bottle appear as a new, unopened bottle of tool oil. And as far as the coffee filters, I'm only going to use them as a prefilter before putting them through a syringe filter. none of its sterile at this point so if able to recover it I'm going to bake the shit out of it
 
So I've conducted a all experiment where I placed some oil on the same kind of foam disk to see the effects. Well, nothing's happened. At all. So one theory is that the foam disk was missing because Chinese customs agents tore it off going through my stuff and the floating shit in the oil are the little pieces that came off when they tore into it. If that's the case I would think that filtration, rebottling, and baking the shit out of it would work. Of course if I'm wrong.....
 
djquirk said:
No, but money's important enough to at least try and salvage it. I'm sure every single substance you've ordered from a UGL and injected was only made from the worlds finest ingredients and prepared only under the strictest of laboratory sterility standards.
Click to expand...
No but I'm not dumb enough to knowingly inject shit that had stuff floating in it. You are a fucking idiot trying to use that logic in an argument.
 
just to recap, you are putting this in multidose vials with butyl stoppers at the end right? You're not just gonna inject it out of some vial with a screw on cap right lol... If that foam doesn't dissolve I guess you could sterile filter it into vials and then bake it
 
djquirk said:
So I had to rebottle some gear in order to get it to xxxx. You'll notice that on some plastic bottles after you pull the main cap off there is a small styrofo disk you than have to peel off. So I put the gear in the bottle and then superglued the foam disk on to make it look like a new, unopened bottle. Well after my travels I took a look and it seems that the oil has dissolved the foam. There are now a few particles floating around in it which are easy enough to filter out. What I'm concerned with is the matter that's dissolved into the oil that you cannot see. Any ideas on how to get it out? And no, I'm not throwing away the gear. It was pricey and I took a huge risk getting it here. My thought is once I I filter it through a coffee filter I'll put it in a Pyrex dish and sit that in boiling water for at least 30 minutes. I know this will kill any germs but like I said I'm more worried about removing the foreign chemicals now residing in my oil. Any thoughts? Oh, and I don't know of it matters but the substance is human grade test E 250. Thanks
Click to expand...
well, to start with... you do know there are solvents in your test e, right?
that's what dissolved the foam... the solvents...
the foam(that is not still in small pieces) is dissolved!!!!
it is permanently in your oil, and you can't get it out without ruining the test e(so it is pointless)... that being said, why don't you goodle styrofoaml, see what it's made of , then google that chemical and look at the health effects associated with injecting that chemical in your body.... not to mention, the plastic bottle you put the stuff in, my guess is that it is either polyethylene or polypropylene.. there are many types of plastic though... it dissolved some of the plastic bottle too(whether you can tell or not) so you are injecting that too...
 
overburdened said:
well, to start with... you do know there are solvents in your test e, right?
that's what dissolved the foam... the solvents...
the foam(that is not still in small pieces) is dissolved!!!!
it is permanently in your oil, and you can't get it out without ruining the test e(so it is pointless)... that being said, why don't you goodle styrofoaml, see what it's made of , then google that chemical and look at the health effects associated with injecting that chemical in your body.... not to mention, the plastic bottle you put the stuff in, my guess is that it is either polyethylene or polypropylene.. there are many types of plastic though... it dissolved some of the plastic bottle too(whether you can tell or not) so you are injecting that too...
Click to expand...

Apparantly many of you have the wrong idea. Of course I'm not going to run the shit through a coffee filter, call it good and then inject. I know the BA in the gear is what did the dissolving, I mean thats it's soul purpose for being in the gear(as a solvent, not for melting styro). If it can't be recovered then I'll toss it with no regret. But who want to toss 6 bottles of human grade Test? Not me unless I have to. I started this thread to see if there are any chemists out there who could point me towards a method of separating the good form the bad. I know it's possible. Humans can slipt atoms into their component parts for christs sake. That question then becomes one of cost/time/complexity. And about the coffee filters, though I already said this, they are only there to pre filter the solution to remove the larger particulate matter. I was never under any illusion that it would render the material safe for consumption.
 
Idra said:
No but I'm not dumb enough to knowingly inject shit that had stuff floating in it. You are a fucking idiot trying to use that logic in an argument.
Click to expand...

Hows this for logic. EVERY steroid you have ever used had shit floating around in it. That's why it's filtered before it gets bottled. And regardless of the filter size there is still shit floating around in it, it's just too small for you to see. Unless like you said l, I'm a fucking idiot. In that case, EVERYONE OUT THERE MAKING THEIR OWN GEAR, YOU CAN STOP USING FILTERS NOW, AND IF YOU DO USE THEM ITS A SIGN THAT YOUR GEAR IS SHIT. Just ask Idra.
 
I will post two methods for you.... Though I don't think it is a good idea for most to attempt this, if you do it EXACTLY how I tell you and practice good sterility... You should be able to save most of it, then you will have to homebrew it back to an oil solution....ill post it in a few min, soo. as I get to my laptop
 
djquirk said:
Apparantly many of you have the wrong idea. Of course I'm not going to run the shit through a coffee filter, call it good and then inject. I know the BA in the gear is what did the dissolving, I mean thats it's soul purpose for being in the gear(as a solvent, not for melting styro). If it can't be recovered then I'll toss it with no regret. But who want to toss 6 bottles of human grade Test? Not me unless I have to. I started this thread to see if there are any chemists out there who could point me towards a method of separating the good form the bad. I know it's possible. Humans can slipt atoms into their component parts for christs sake. That question then becomes one of cost/time/complexity. And about the coffee filters, though I already said this, they are only there to pre filter the solution to remove the larger particulate matter. I was never under any illusion that it would render the material safe for consumption.
Click to expand...

Ok, before I lay this out I would like to clarify a couple things...the human body is capable of millions of processes that scientists have yet to replicate in a lab! AND, the human body cannot split atoms into their components any more so than a glass of water can... the body can use ion gradients(electron gradients), etc.... but a glass of water will pull electrons forming ions to....but atoms, on their own, can split into their components... it's called radioactive decay....

Now, onto these two methods...
1. Precipitate the test out of the oil...(filter the foam pieces out first)

you can put the test in the freezer for a day or two and crash it... you will end up with a bunch of test crystals floating, at the bottom, and attached to the walls and bottom of the container it is in(I recommend using a wide glass dish for this, if you have pyrex lab glassware, that would be best...if not, go to walmart and get a half-pint jelly canning jar, with lid(sterilize it by using 91%isopropyl alcohol, fill jar half way, with the lid on, shake the jar... empty, drain, let evaporate til no liquid left in jar...)

you have 18 g of test e there(if it is dosed correctly).. you will not recover all of it, but will recover most if you take your time, and do this right.....

once the test is crystalized out of solution, filter the oil to catch crystals(save the crystals), you can do the freeze process again(using another jar... the one you have you need to sterilize a knife and scrape the edges and bottom, save those crystals....) you may get some more crystals(you can leave it in there for a couple more days) if they didn't fall out to the full extent that they will at that temp...

once you filter the crystals and have them contained, put them into a larger glass beaker. you will then put just enough methanol on them til you can get them to barely dissolve...swirl them as you are slowly adding methanol(if you add too much, it makes this take much longer and you lose way more product)...

once they are dissolved, you will take very cold(as in put the gallon in the fridge for a couple days while you are crystalizing the test... you will need a couple gallons)distilled water, pour 4 cups into the methanol/test solution. the solution will turn white, test will start falling out of solution...let this sit for about 4 -8 hrs(in the fridge, covered). the test will mostly be settled at the bottom(it will be white crystalline). run this through coffee filters(save test crystals, you will need to dry them now)... the water/methanol/test solution, you can add a couple more cups of cold distilled water.. if it turns cloudy again, there is still test in it... repeat last few steps to get it out...

you will dry the test crystals out completely(methanol is highly toxic!!! it does evaporate clean, so if you dry them completely you will not have methanol left)... as an extra precaution, you can rinse the test crystals with distilled water when you finish filtering them(while they are in coffee filter, slowly pour distilled water on top of them so it passes through them and the filter into the glass below)...DRY THEM COMPLETELY!!!

when they are completely dry, you can homebrew them back into test e....

This is not a difficult procedure, but patience, cleanliness, and sterility are key....If you take your time and do this right, you can get 15+g of test back out(i could probably save just over 16g, but I have lots of experience with things like this... if you get 15 you did a good job)

there is another method, but the one I posted is safer, and it yields test e... the other method yields tne, and uses caustic materials....
 
overburdened said:
Ok, before I lay this out I would like to clarify a couple things...the human body is capable of millions of processes that scientists have yet to replicate in a lab! AND, the human body cannot split atoms into their components any more so than a glass of water can... the body can use ion gradients(electron gradients), etc.... but a glass of water will pull electrons forming ions to....but atoms, on their own, can split into their components... it's called radioactive decay....

Now, onto these two methods...
1. Precipitate the test out of the oil...(filter the foam pieces out first)

you can put the test in the freezer for a day or two and crash it... you will end up with a bunch of test crystals floating, at the bottom, and attached to the walls and bottom of the container it is in(I recommend using a wide glass dish for this, if you have pyrex lab glassware, that would be best...if not, go to walmart and get a half-pint jelly canning jar, with lid(sterilize it by using 91%isopropyl alcohol, fill jar half way, with the lid on, shake the jar... empty, drain, let evaporate til no liquid left in jar...)

you have 18 g of test e there(if it is dosed correctly).. you will not recover all of it, but will recover most if you take your time, and do this right.....

once the test is crystalized out of solution, filter the oil to catch crystals(save the crystals), you can do the freeze process again(using another jar... the one you have you need to sterilize a knife and scrape the edges and bottom, save those crystals....) you may get some more crystals(you can leave it in there for a couple more days) if they didn't fall out to the full extent that they will at that temp...

once you filter the crystals and have them contained, put them into a larger glass beaker. you will then put just enough methanol on them til you can get them to barely dissolve...swirl them as you are slowly adding methanol(if you add too much, it makes this take much longer and you lose way more product)...

once they are dissolved, you will take very cold(as in put the gallon in the fridge for a couple days while you are crystalizing the test... you will need a couple gallons)distilled water, pour 4 cups into the methanol/test solution. the solution will turn white, test will start falling out of solution...let this sit for about 4 -8 hrs(in the fridge, covered). the test will mostly be settled at the bottom(it will be white crystalline). run this through coffee filters(save test crystals, you will need to dry them now)... the water/methanol/test solution, you can add a couple more cups of cold distilled water.. if it turns cloudy again, there is still test in it... repeat last few steps to get it out...

you will dry the test crystals out completely(methanol is highly toxic!!! it does evaporate clean, so if you dry them completely you will not have methanol left)... as an extra precaution, you can rinse the test crystals with distilled water when you finish filtering them(while they are in coffee filter, slowly pour distilled water on top of them so it passes through them and the filter into the glass below)...DRY THEM COMPLETELY!!!

when they are completely dry, you can homebrew them back into test e....

This is not a difficult procedure, but patience, cleanliness, and sterility are key....If you take your time and do this right, you can get 15+g of test back out(i could probably save just over 16g, but I have lots of experience with things like this... if you get 15 you did a good job)

there is another method, but the one I posted is safer, and it yields test e... the other method yields tne, and uses caustic materials....
Click to expand...


My statement about splitting atoms was just to say that if people could figure put how to split atoms them surely they could figure out how to seperate the styrofoam from my Test. Anyway, thank you Overburdened. I came here seeking advice and you came back with some solid knowledge to at least try. When I get to my home I will attempt it later this week and post the details. Thanks again.
 
No prob... If you don't see plenty of crystals, pm me... I'll guide you through it... There's many other methods I can give you, this is simple as long as you can get good crash on the test. Don't toss oil til you pm me if you don't think it crashed good enough... If you want, post a clear pic and I can tell you if it crashed well enough
 
If you crank down the temperature in your freezer it will probably help crash more out of solution. Just adjust it like 24 hours before hand as it'll take a while to change

reading that reminded me alot of extracting dmt ;)
 
Lol at dmt.... Also, dry ice can be used... It kinda depends on bb content, as enanthate is easily dissolved in oil... I may have to move on to next method.... I actually prefer other method, but it uses a chem I don't freely recommend to most people

Digitalash said:
If you crank down the temperature in your freezer it will probably help crash more out of solution. Just adjust it like 24 hours before hand as it'll take a while to change

reading that reminded me alot of extracting dmt ;)
Click to expand...
 
So methanol, I have no experience with it.wikipedia says:

Methanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Given the first paragraph I'm assuming this is a hardware store item. Anything in particular I should look for when scouting this stuff out? If I get it I'm going to get started this weekend.
 
Filter that shit threw a Fram oil filter, I would! Hahahaha
idk if I'd pin it or not, my health and no infections seem a lot bigger than loosing some gear. But you seem to be striving to recover it so good luck bro.....
 
djquirk said:
No, but money's important enough to at least try and salvage it. I'm sure every single substance you've ordered from a UGL and injected was only made from the worlds finest ingredients and prepared only under the strictest of laboratory sterility standards.
Click to expand...


Having a possible infection and a hospital stay with out of pocket deductibles and co-pays makes more sense than throwing it away?
 
XYZ said:
Having a possible infection and a hospital stay with out of pocket deductibles and co-pays makes more sense than throwing it away?
Click to expand...

I agree w/ XYZ.. It's not worth all the possibles of informality of product.. It's one vial!
 
This is a train wreck waiting to happen. I see a thread in the next 2 weeks saying...

"I think I have an infection from HG Enanthate! Help!!!"
 
djquirk said:
So methanol, I have no experience with it.wikipedia says:

Methanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Given the first paragraph I'm assuming this is a hardware store item. Anything in particular I should look for when scouting this stuff out? If I get it I'm going to get started this weekend.
Click to expand...
yellow bottle of heet(gas line antifreeze) is pure methanol. You need one bottle(don't worry, it all evaporates, plus you are washing it anyway). Just easiest place to find pure methanol. y...
 
If anyone here has ever made prop from synovex-h... It's similar process
 
hey, overburdened, i bet you can make some kick ass tren huh, hahaha yea !!
 
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