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Car Thread

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azza1971 said:
Is your system a progressive one one for during the run?
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Nah, I used the progressive controller with the fogger system. I didn't like the way it pulse the solenoids. I eventually had to run a back up solenoid(Nitrous side) because of failure due to heavy pulsing from the controller. Some swear by it but I just have a bad taste in my mouth from it. I like 2 stage setups because I have more control of what goes on at what time in the pass.
 
Its not that much work, my front end is already rebuilt, i have 90/10 shocks, the rear end will be a Strange centred 35 spline 9?. I have a rollerised C4 sitting in the garage, has all the fruit, i have windsor and clevo stuff on hand. Just need to sort out the combo, prolly start with a new Dart block. I have AFR 225 heads on hand, my clevo stuff is mainly bottom end, if i go Dart block and can but either a 4.00 bore or 4,0125 from memory so a big cube small block is possible. It will happen, just need time, and money.
 
azza1971 said:
Its not that much work, my front end is already rebuilt, i have 90/10 shocks, the rear end will be a Strange centred 35 spline 9?. I have a rollerised C4 sitting in the garage, has all the fruit, i have windsor and clevo stuff on hand. Just need to sort out the combo, prolly start with a new Dart block. I have AFR 225 heads on hand, my clevo stuff is mainly bottom end, if i go Dart block and can but either a 4.00 bore or 4,0125 from memory so a big cube small block is possible. It will happen, just need time, and money.
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Sell the Cleveland stuff, dude. Old, heavy technology. Good stuff for its time. If you have AFR 225's(for a windsor) you have all you need. Don't overthink the bottom end just build it for longevity(and a light rotating mass wouldn't hurt). 351W is an easy starting point. Plenty of off the shelf parts for whatever cubic inch you'd like. I put together a 0.030 over 351 for my buddy 7years ago with AFR 185's, stock bottom end and block(crank, rods 0 neutral balanced of course) that drives to the track on pump gas and runs 6.50's on a preset 125hp plate system. The trick is in the small details(rod clearance, main clearance, cam selection, etc). Lots of fun, and durable as hell. We still haven't taken it apart not even to re-ring it and it has low-tension rings.
 
jay_steel said:
that car is going to need allot of work to run a 10.9 or low 11. My car ran a 10.5 on a stick and will run a high 9 with my new tranny and more boost and i dont run a cage... Just go run it get yelled at get your slip and call it a day. My stang is my street car so there is no way i am putting a cage in it. Just want to know what it runs. My next car will be my race car, still debating either a Subaru for rally racing and open track or a fox for drag. I am getting burnt out on drag racing though, might just sale every thing but the stang and buy a bass boat and more guns.
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IDK, man. That's nothing more than a mild combo nowadays.
 
right on, we have new mod laws where i live, police can impound your car based on defects etc so have to play that part safe. I want to race on a regular basis, so going half a second under will get your number taken and no return until all safety stuff is done. Seen it a hundred times before. Mates car, he did some testing pass?s, he has a GTR spec RB motor in a commodore, he half tracked it and on the brake ran flat eleven, next pass, he drove the auto in gear for first sixty, nailed it and ran 143 mph through traps, his time was a 10.80, told to leave and dont come back, the track officals here are very good and wide awake to guys running around the cut off and only driving like grandma out of the hole, or nailing a decent 60 and rolling through the beams on the brake, not the same as bracket racing to protect a dial in.
 
Running high 10s in a heavy wagon is going to take a decent amount of hp. I was cracking low 12s in my budget small block s10 with around 420hp. And it weighed in around 2900 without me in it
 
post the 23 plates leg press.......
 
Last edited by a moderator:
longworthb said:
Running high 10s in a heavy wagon is going to take a decent amount of hp. I was cracking low 12s in my budget small block s10 with around 420hp. And it weighed in around 2900 without me in it
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thats why i have the heads, 225?s are designed for a stroker bottom end i dont have yet, i do a bit of buying and selling and these came up at the right price. My wag will go a far bit quicker than 10.90, i just dont want to buzz the thing to go a few tenths quicker, want to race dial in round 10.90-11.00 which means no cage, authorities frown on cages and they can impound your car for one so its a tight rope walk for being quick. Lots of guys are in the same boat. Which means its pointless going faster than 10.90 in QLD where i live and have street rego or permit rego, you may as well deregister your car and keep your plates on, trailer it everywhere, my enjoyment does not come from a 10.90 second run and a twenty second return run trip, its the hour driving and cruising around to shows with the kids etc. If i was in a state that was fine, the car would be pro streeted, back halfed, blown etc if i had the funds.
 
longworthb said:
Running high 10s in a heavy wagon is going to take a decent amount of hp. I was cracking low 12s in my budget small block s10 with around 420hp. And it weighed in around 2900 without me in it
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this
it aint gonna happen unless he has 500-600hp and equal torque
azza be daydreaming
 
This thread is hilarious!!!
 
Aries1 said:
IDK, man. That's nothing more than a mild combo nowadays.
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if that car is gutted its going to take around 550hp to make a high ten second pass. I think hes closer to a 11.5 with what hes talking about. Unless he throws a nitrous set up on it then thats a different story. I would personally get a built short block, ported heads, aggressive cam, and a 150 shot or even 300 shot if he has a good tuner. We ran two 150's to our rat rod and that car was stupid to drive. Ran an 11.4 but not on a track at an regular road prepped with VHT. You know your ready to roll when you drive around with VHT and a blow torch in your trunk lol...
 
jay_steel said:
if that car is gutted its going to take around 550hp to make a high ten second pass. I think hes closer to a 11.5 with what hes talking about. Unless he throws a nitrous set up on it then thats a different story. I would personally get a built short block, ported heads, aggressive cam, and a 150 shot or even 300 shot if he has a good tuner. We ran two 150's to our rat rod and that car was stupid to drive. Ran an 11.4 but not on a track at an regular road prepped with VHT. You know your ready to roll when you drive around with VHT and a blow torch in your trunk lol...
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A friend of mine runs a built big block '66(?) Dodge wagon mostly in the 1/8th but its a high 10 second car.

I had some pics on my phone from the last time he ran in Valdosta/Cecil, GA but I since erased them. :(

Here's Jere Etheridge at the same track back in February. Only thing kept him from going all the way over were the chutes. :ohyeah:

559701_542649059100061_1855583487_n.jpg


wheelie.png



Oh, he still ran a 4.89 @ 118 in the 1/8th on that pass. :lol:
 
longworthb said:
Running high 10s in a heavy wagon is going to take a decent amount of hp. I was cracking low 12s in my budget small block s10 with around 420hp. And it weighed in around 2900 without me in it
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Without knowing how or who built your motor, bro, I have to say you're incorrect. Over estimating hp is commonplace for tuners these days. Guys want numbers and don't really race. Running high 10's in a heavy car is very, very simple. Anyone that says otherwise just needs a little track time to fully understand. A 7.0et in the 1/8th converts to an 11.0 or 10.90 pass. If you guys are having that much trouble running 10's bring your cars on down to NC and I'll set you up real easy.
 
jay_steel said:
if that car is gutted its going to take around 550hp to make a high ten second pass. I think hes closer to a 11.5 with what hes talking about. Unless he throws a nitrous set up on it then thats a different story. I would personally get a built short block, ported heads, aggressive cam, and a 150 shot or even 300 shot if he has a good tuner. We ran two 150's to our rat rod and that car was stupid to drive. Ran an 11.4 but not on a track at an regular road prepped with VHT. You know your ready to roll when you drive around with VHT and a blow torch in your trunk lol...
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Sorry, man. That's just not true. If that were true I must be the baddest engine builder around... I have put together literal junk motors with factory heads that are faster than 7.0's, bro. Almost anyone that races can do so. Come on down to Greensboro, N.C. and I'll show you my motor(in the car right now). Its a 355cu in stocker with factory heads. I can hit the brakes and run better than 7.0's, dude. Shit, come on down we'll drink some beer. I might even let you drive if I drink enough.
 
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Sorry, guys. I'm not purposely being derogatory but I do this almost every thursday and saturday. I have since I was 15yrs old. Maybe my inexperience with 1/4 mi tracks is to blame. I'm doing the only thing I know and using a 1/8th to 1/4 mi conversion from a car website. I think some of you may be making claims based off of things you've read or your few trips to the track. Or maybe Azza has the heaviest car in the world, IDK.
 
Aries1 said:
Good lord, how heavy do you guys think that old wagon is?
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heavy for a drag car. It takes a 480 to make a gutted Fox Body run a 10.9 with a C4 transmission and that is a LIGHT car.
 
Aries1 said:
Sorry, guys. I'm not purposely being derogatory but I do this almost every thursday and saturday. I have since I was 15yrs old. Maybe my inexperience with 1/4 mi tracks is to blame. I'm doing the only thing I know and using a 1/8th to 1/4 mi conversion from a car website. I think some of you may be making claims based off of things you've read or your few trips to the track. Or maybe Azza has the heaviest car in the world, IDK.
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My wagon weighs less than the sedan variant, rear wheel wells can take a 28x10.5 or a 275/60/15 MT drag radial easily. Car weighs as a six around 1350 kg. Anyone own a Moroso Speed Calc? very usefull. my engine when we build it will make minimum of 550hp at the engine. I am looking into other engines also, a turbo toyota V8 my friend has in his Capri, runs 8.3o on drag radials at 170 MPH, that is full quarter and driven to track. Biggest turbo motor i am currently allowed is 4ltr, the Toyota is 4ltr.
 
More to running numbers than hp numbers, its all about the gearing, correct matched stall converter, matched to your rear tyres, engine is only one thing. Add on goodies can add a lot, Full MSD Digital, electric water pumps, spacers, tunes for E85 or methanol etc can radically change things. I am also installing Caltracs and monoleaf in the rear. My friends engine which is a 393 clevo with small chi heads, hydraulic roller, 75 carb, fully sorted track car runs 10.90, it has 510 at engine, in a sedan running a 4000 stall, 28? tyre and 4?11?s. I am aiming to be quicker, more cubes, bigger solid cam, bigger heads, but with less stall and 3.7 gears and 28? tyre.
 
jay_steel said:
heavy for a drag car. It takes a 480 to make a gutted Fox Body run a 10.9 with a C4 transmission and that is a LIGHT car.
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I'm pretty sure my full interior chevelle is as heavy or heavier than his wagon, bro. I'm certain that the present motor in my car does not make 480hp.
I've owned and raced 5 different fox body's, dude. You could take it apart down to the last bolt and ship it to me in a box and I can put it back together better than it was. Fox's have a special place in my heart as they are what I cut my teeth with. Awesome little cars.
 
azza1971 said:
More to running numbers than hp numbers, its all about the gearing, correct matched stall converter, matched to your rear tyres, engine is only one thing. Add on goodies can add a lot, Full MSD Digital, electric water pumps, spacers, tunes for E85 or methanol etc can radically change things. I am also installing Caltracs and monoleaf in the rear. My friends engine which is a 393 clevo with small chi heads, hydraulic roller, 75 carb, fully sorted track car runs 10.90, it has 510 at engine, in a sedan running a 4000 stall, 28? tyre and 4?11?s. I am aiming to be quicker, more cubes, bigger solid cam, bigger heads, but with less stall and 3.7 gears and 28? tyre.
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End of story. Sorry guys, I've got to go with Azza on this one. He's obviously been around cars and drag strips a good deal.

KILLEROFSAINTS said:
probly 5000 without being stripped
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Lol...
 
azza1971 said:
More to running numbers than hp numbers, its all about the gearing, correct matched stall converter, matched to your rear tyres, engine is only one thing. Add on goodies can add a lot, Full MSD Digital, electric water pumps, spacers, tunes for E85 or methanol etc can radically change things. I am also installing Caltracs and monoleaf in the rear. My friends engine which is a 393 clevo with small chi heads, hydraulic roller, 75 carb, fully sorted track car runs 10.90, it has 510 at engine, in a sedan running a 4000 stall, 28? tyre and 4?11?s. I am aiming to be quicker, more cubes, bigger solid cam, bigger heads, but with less stall and 3.7 gears and 28? tyre.
Click to expand...
You'll like this setup. The video I put up of my little brother on the shakedown pass was done using this setup as his class only allowed stock type suspensions. Go the extra bit and purchase shocks that can be adjusted for compression and rebound. Do the same in the front and that wagon will bite like an alligator. Also, spend the extra time getting your pinion angle exactly where you want it. A great setup.
 
I suppose pics of me driving the tube framed chassid Capri will validate.
 
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