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homebrew powder

If you're homebrewing you dont even need the powder calculator (which most of you use wrong anyway).

Mix your shit in a graduated cylinder. I'll explain.

Say you want to make 50ml of Test E with 2% BA, 20%BB (though you dont need any BB for test E):

50ml*.02 = 1ml BA
50ml*.20 = 10ml BB
12.5g Test E

Start by putting your BB into the graduated cylinder up to the 10ml mark, then put 1ml BA into that. It's easier in this order because it's easier to find the 10ml mark than the 1ml mark on most graduated cylinders.

Now dump your powder into that. Some will probably stick to the walls etc, swish it around to capture that. It's typically easier to use a wider graduated cylinder for this operation because its makes it easier to put stuff into it.

Let that sit and the test E powder dissolve completely.

Once dissolved, pour oil into the cylinder until you hit the 50ml mark.

You now have accurately dosed Test E without even measuring the volume of oil - now filter and put into your sterile media however you desire.


*I suggest making 5-10ml more than what you want to yield because there will be losses in each step.
 
had a bit of a brew today using PTFE membrane disc filters. I reckon i was getting around 20mls until they were nearly blocked and flow slowed big time. when the flow nearly stopped and filter was blocked, the flask started to leak slowly? i am using a vacuum set up with glassware. is it normal for them to start to leak when the filters become blocked? thanks.


Always use a pvdf filter. :winkfinger:

And yes, most of mine have started to leak. I don't believe it was because they were clogged though. It was either too much vacuum, or the oil was too hot when I put it in.
 
I used the graduated cylinder method when I brewed, its way more accurate in my opinion. The way I checked the MP of my powder was rubber banding a melting point capillary to the end of a thermometer then placing the end in a cup of oil while slowly heating it, if your patient enough and don't heat it to quickly you can accurately measure to the half of a degree.
 
Could u use one of those laser gun thermometers that you get from a hardware store? I figured i could just watch the powder and shoot the laser on it as soon as it starts to melt.
 
That would be definitely be more expensive and most likely not as precise
 
Should test E powder always come in a powder? I received some that is in a solid block. It was shipped in a air tight container but it looks like it was cut from a bigger block. Is that normal or should it be a powder?
 
Should test E powder always come in a powder? I received some that is in a solid block. It was shipped in a air tight container but it looks like it was cut from a bigger block. Is that normal or should it be a powder?

I have not actually opened mine yet but mine feels like its hard and in chunks and not a powdery feel.
 
Always use a pvdf filter. :winkfinger:

And yes, most of mine have started to leak. I don't believe it was because they were clogged though. It was either too much vacuum, or the oil was too hot when I put it in.

there was a post a couple of pages back saying the PTFE is even better than PVDF?
and i was running around 12 psi?
 
PTFE generally has better chemical compatibility than PVDF. So if youre filtering things like EO and guaiaol PTFE is a better choice.

Maybe there's something about the pore profile of PVDF that makes it better (doesn't clog as fast) for filtering oils versus PTFE.

I filter all my oil in a .05um filter before I even brew with it. Seems to help the final filtration step.
 
I've been limping super bad from this test prop soreness lately. Anybody wanna comment how long it takes for the soreness to clear
 
Muscle Gelz Transdermals
IronMag Labs Prohormones
I've been limping super bad from this test prop soreness lately. Anybody wanna comment how long it takes for the soreness to clear

Everyone is different regarding the irritation from prop.
It only takes 2-3 days for me but I have a buddy hwo has issues for 5+ days after a prop shot.
 
Does the pain stop after a few injections into the same muscle? Also, will this soreness occur in every body part I inject until I get each body part used to the oil? Seems like an obvious yes but here's to hoping >_<
 
I've had a couple different brands of prop that didn't leave me sore one bit. I'm not sure if it's me, or just how it's made.
 
PTFE generally has better chemical compatibility than PVDF. So if youre filtering things like EO and guaiaol PTFE is a better choice.

Maybe there's something about the pore profile of PVDF that makes it better (doesn't clog as fast) for filtering oils versus PTFE.

I filter all my oil in a .05um filter before I even brew with it. Seems to help the final filtration step.

That might be a good idea, plus ill see if I can put a pre filter over the top to remove large particles. Might help you think?!
 
With win you need to filter the water and BA without the win.
Filter distilled water and BA into a sterile vial
Heat Peg 300 Ps80 win untill dissolved. Win has a super high MP.
Peg will likely smoke.
Once dissolved and cooled and using a new filter filter the win into the water.

Thanks brundel !!

lol.... this is not fun...

Yerg why do you say it is not fun ? You thought it is too complicated to brew or what ?
 
^^^its a pain in the ass and for some reason people tend to fuck up win batches.
Could be that there are so many bad recipes out there.
If I guy posts 3 different conflicting recipes for win its because he doesnt know.


Here is the recipe that works.
for 100ml at 50mg per ml.
5g winny,
15ml peg 400,
.5ml poly80
3% BA---Extra high because water based preparations are notorious bacteria and fungi breeding grounds.
77.75 Distilled water.

Run water and BA through sterile filter into a sterile vial (100ml) -----use 1 filter
Heat Ps80, Peg 400, win to 450-460 degrees. Peg will likely smoke a bit. Wait till everything is cleared up.
Let cool a bit as the current temp will melt the filter.
Filter win solution into the water. use filter #2

Done.
50mg/ml x 100ml

YOU MUST USE 2 FILTERS DO NOT REUSE FILTERS.
 
2 500ml beakers. Put ba,bb and powder in one. Put GSO in the other. Put the beaker with the gso in the oven and heat it up for about 10min. I put it around 180-200. Put the beaker with the powder in a big pot with about 3" of water. The amount of water depends on the weight of the beaker and its contents. You want the max amount of water. Put the stovetop on "3"

Wait until the ba and bb disolve the powder. Swirl it around in the beaker. It will become liquid. When it's dissolved pour the heated GSO in. Let this warm up and keep swirling it. Once done, you might want to let it cool just a little before putting into a filter.

This worked good.

I always sterilized my beakers in the over right before they were to be used. That way they are already hot and you don't wait for them to warm up.

The rats respond well to the product.

What do yo use to sterilize your beakers ?
I want to buy and autoclave to do this and for the best value this one seemed to be the best :
New Commercial Autoclave Sterilizer 18L Tattoo Dental | eBay

I want to sterilize my vials and stoppers too with this.

What do you or anybody say ? Is it good ?

Or maybe this for autoclave ?
SCF274/23 Philips AVENT Express Electric Steam Steriliser SCF274/23 220-240 V - Philips Support
 
^^^its a pain in the ass and for some reason people tend to fuck up win batches.
Could be that there are so many bad recipes out there.
If I guy posts 3 different conflicting recipes for win its because he doesnt know.


Here is the recipe that works.
for 100ml at 50mg per ml.
5g winny,
15ml peg 400,
.5ml poly80
3% BA---Extra high because water based preparations are notorious bacteria and fungi breeding grounds.
77.75 Distilled water.

Run water and BA through sterile filter into a sterile vial (100ml) -----use 1 filter
Heat Ps80, Peg 400, win to 450-460 degrees. Peg will likely smoke a bit. Wait till everything is cleared up.
Let cool a bit as the current temp will melt the filter.
Filter win solution into the water. use filter #2

Done.
50mg/ml x 100ml

YOU MUST USE 2 FILTERS DO NOT REUSE FILTERS.

Thank you very much !!
 
Yikes! I think I have read this intently for at least the past few hours! (did some link surfing). This thread has been quite helpful in understanding brewing for HRT. For that I must commend those on here who have proven to be a wealth of invaluble knowledge!
 
Thanks brundel !!



Yerg why do you say it is not fun ? You thought it is too complicated to brew or what ?
No... Not too complicated, but when transfering the peg/win/ps into the bac water the win likes to clump as the water draws the win out of the peg/ps...........So to combat this i do it slowely... and shake the vial vigorously..... Just a bit more of a pain in the ass than most other raw aas...
 
I love this thread! Lots of great info. I always did enjoy chemistry-especially my o-chem lab. So thanks to all the bro's who have contributed info.

I'll contribute a little also. I have found this cheap heating block/melting point apparatus since some of you mentioned measuring melting points. It is $30 from here. You will have to buy the thermometer separate. But imagine putting this on a hot plate (preferable) or even the stove-top. And just a pinch of product is all you would need to use with this.

MeltingPointAl_4125-1_M.jpg


For the record, our o-chem lab used a cheap-ass melting-point apparatus. It was basically a light bulb shining on a capillary tube with a thermometer sticking out. Oh and don't forget the cheap magnify glass that completely obscured your view :hmmm:. Point is it would seem easy to do a homemade apparatus. Just suspend a capillary tube (cheap from amazon) over a light bulb and have a thermometer suspended at the same level as the capillary tube and that's it. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Very interesting...thx for input bro
 
PTFE generally has better chemical compatibility than PVDF. So if youre filtering things like EO and guaiaol PTFE is a better choice.

Maybe there's something about the pore profile of PVDF that makes it better (doesn't clog as fast) for filtering oils versus PTFE.

I filter all my oil in a .05um filter before I even brew with it. Seems to help the final filtration step.

where do you guys buy your membrane filter discs from?!
 
No... Not too complicated, but when transfering the peg/win/ps into the bac water the win likes to clump as the water draws the win out of the peg/ps...........So to combat this i do it slowely... and shake the vial vigorously..... Just a bit more of a pain in the ass than most other raw aas...


That oil based winny recipe I posted works.

I'm not too keen on even trying to make a water based injectable.
 
I have a theory. (some experience behind it) ;)

Try filtering into vacu-tainers. They sell different ml's but just maybe the already existing vacuum inside the container will help pull the gear through the syringe filter faster. They are incredibly cheap, or can be picked up at some medical supply stores (they are largely used to draw blood). Once filtered you can transfer from the vacu-tainer into vials. It just may save to from carpal tunnel (esp. If running high IU of GH) haha, plus some time is saved.

Just food for thought.
 
No... Not too complicated, but when transfering the peg/win/ps into the bac water the win likes to clump as the water draws the win out of the peg/ps...........So to combat this i do it slowely... and shake the vial vigorously..... Just a bit more of a pain in the ass than most other raw aas...

OK. And why is the shaking ? To dissolve the clumps ?

Brundel, do you shake the win at the end of the process ? Is it necessary ?

Distilled water can be used instead of bac water, right ?
 
OK. And why is the shaking ? To dissolve the clumps ?

Brundel, do you shake the win at the end of the process ? Is it necessary ?

Distilled water can be used instead of bac water, right ?
Yes this helps keep it from clumping... You can use distilled water but you must add BA to it... I use 2%... Brundel recomends 3% due to bacteria growing easily in water.... And yes shake it up bro!!!lol
 
The search function isn't working for me so I am resorting to asking without having been able to search myself... (for this I am sorry)

I am getting in some Var raws soon and am hoping someone here has a recipe for converting into a pinable form.
I have seen the end result a long time ago and am hoping to do the same. Any help is appreciated.
 
The search function isn't working for me so I am resorting to asking without having been able to search myself... (for this I am sorry)

I am getting in some Var raws soon and am hoping someone here has a recipe for converting into a pinable form.
I have seen the end result a long time ago and am hoping to do the same. Any help is appreciated.


oil based winny
1g winny
.5ml ba
2ml bb
5.5ml guaiacol(super solvent)
11.25ml ethyl oleate

that holds for oil based winny, it might work for var too. Change out the winny with var and see if it holds. If not increase the guaiacol up to ~7.5ml (and subtract 2ml from the EO).

Use PVDF of PTFE filters for this. Those will attack any other filter element.

You'll have to experiment and see if it holds. Injectable var is pretty rare and not too many people have made it.
 
If you're homebrewing you dont even need the powder calculator (which most of you use wrong anyway).

Mix your shit in a graduated cylinder. I'll explain.

Say you want to make 50ml of Test E with 2% BA, 20%BB (though you dont need any BB for test E):

50ml*.02 = 1ml BA
50ml*.20 = 10ml BB
12.5g Test E

Start by putting your BB into the graduated cylinder up to the 10ml mark, then put 1ml BA into that. It's easier in this order because it's easier to find the 10ml mark than the 1ml mark on most graduated cylinders.

Now dump your powder into that. Some will probably stick to the walls etc, swish it around to capture that. It's typically easier to use a wider graduated cylinder for this operation because its makes it easier to put stuff into it.

Let that sit and the test E powder dissolve completely.

Once dissolved, pour oil into the cylinder until you hit the 50ml mark.

You now have accurately dosed Test E without even measuring the volume of oil - now filter and put into your sterile media however you desire.


*I suggest making 5-10ml more than what you want to yield because there will be losses in each step.
I have done it this way all along. I didn't ever know why everyone went through all those(.76 ml/gram) things to figure out how much oil to use before ever putting the powder in. more or less I dictate,my mg/ml by how much oil i use as well as how much powder. I think its backasswards to do it the other way. I don't see how you could ever be right on unless you add the oil last.
 
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